Central AC diagnostics & repair
Warm air at the registers is a symptom, not a diagnosis. It can be a failed run capacitor or contactor, a tripped high-pressure switch, refrigerant charge that has slowly leaked away, a condensate drain backing up and shutting the system down, a seized condenser fan motor, or a thermostat and control problem that never touched the equipment at all. We measure pressures, temperature split, static pressure and electrical draw before saying anything about replacement.
Coils, airflow and shade
Pacific Northwest yards are hard on outdoor units — fir needles, cottonwood fluff, moss and dense shade plantings pack a condenser coil until it can't reject heat. Indoors, a filter that hasn't moved in two years or undersized return ductwork will starve the evaporator and ice it up. Both look like a dying compressor from the thermostat. Cleaning and correcting airflow is often the actual fix.
Replacement & new installation
When an air conditioner is genuinely done — compressor failure, an obsolete refrigerant, a rusted-through coil on a system well past its service life — we design the replacement around the house. That means load, existing duct capacity and static pressure, electrical service, condensate routing and where the outdoor unit can sit without cooking itself against a south wall. Oversizing is the most common mistake we inherit: it short-cycles, never pulls humidity down, and leaves upstairs bedrooms warm.
Adding cooling to a home that never had it
If your house has ductwork and a furnace, adding a cooling coil and outdoor unit is often straightforward. If it doesn't, a ductless system is usually the better build. Either way we'll tell you which one fits the house rather than defaulting to whatever is easiest to sell.